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THE BRIEFING

A tailor’s tips for buying a suit for a taller frame

PUBLISHED ON
24th July 2020
WRITER
Tracy Chow

When it comes to suits, tall men can have a difficult time achieving the proportionate and elegant look that sits at the heart of fine dressing. The trick is to find patterns, colours and textures that de-emphasise height. Here’s our dos-and-don’ts guide to finding the right tall men’s suits.

The DOs of Buying Suits As A Tall Man

1 Aim for combinations

Separate pieces work well for men over six feet tall. This simply means a blazer and trousers in different materials and colours. This breaks the body in two, thus de-emphasising height.

Aim for Combinations - Loro Piana Sport Jacket in Wool & Silk ; Vitale Barberis Grey Flannel Trousers in 100% Wool

Loro Piana Sport Jacket in Wool & Silk ; Vitale Barberis Grey Flannel Trousers in 100% Wool

2 Layer-up

When the seasons permit, you can also use layers to give dimension. A waistcoat is ideal or a double-breasted jacket. This is an optical illusion designed to break up the sense of height.

Layer Up - Grey & Black Glen Check Bespoke Shawl Coat by Carnet in Wool, Polyamide, Silk & Cashmere blend; Brown Shawl Lapel Bespoke Vest in Vitale Barberis Flannel Wool; Grey Flannel Stripe Flannel Wool Bespoke Trousers in Loro Piana Wool

Layer Up – Grey & Black Glen Check Bespoke Shawl Coat by Carnet in Wool, Polyamide, Silk & Cashmere blend; Brown Shawl Lapel Bespoke Vest in Vitale Barberis Flannel Wool; Grey Flannel Stripe Flannel Wool Bespoke Trousers in Loro Piana Wool

3 Buy belts not braces

Belts are better than braces for tall, slim men. In fact, anything central that breaks up the sense of height is to be embraced.

4 Get bespoke

You’re not a standard size so your clothes shouldn’t be either. Invest in bespoke suits from a reputable tailor or have blazers & trousers altered to flatter your frame.

Chest Measurement by Senszio's Bespoke Master

Get Bespoke – have your clothing fit your physique without compromising on shorter sleeves, wider hips and other issues common with ready-to-wear.

5 Buy longer ties

Ties tend to come in a standard size, which makes it awkward for taller men to achieve double knots without shortening the overall length. Find companies that offer longer-length ties.

6 Go bold with shoes

Shoes with bold colours or textures will be good at drawing observers’ gazes downwards. Don’t worry if you have large feet: they’ll be in proportion with your body, so it won’t restrain your style aesthetic. If you’re a traditionalist and favor brogues or derbies, consider contrast laces.

Go bold with shoes Shoes with bold colours or textures will be good at drawing observers’ gazes downwards.

Go bold…with shoes that contrast your jacket & trousers, thus drawing observers’ gazes downwards

The DON’Ts of Buying Suits As A Tall Man

1 Wear stripes

We all know the old adage that vertical stripes add height. But if you absolutely must wear them, elect for fine, narrow-spaced stripes on your suit.

2 Forget those buttons

Opt for two-button suit jackets. A three-button jacket will emphasise your height. If you must have three buttons, don’t button them all. For further guidance, check out our guide to finding perfect button stance for your frame.

3 Button Casual Brown Flannel Sport Jacket

3 Button Casual Brown Flannel Sport Jacket

3 Just throw on any old summer wear

For tall, slim men, wearing shorts and short-sleeved shirts together will show lots of bare arm and leg. That can only draw attention to your height.

4 Wear low-rise pants

Your waistband must sit in the right place. If you’re over six feet, an average rise will be too low. That will give the illusion of a longer torso. Instead, choose mid- to high-rise cuts.

5 Double-up on solids

Suits with solid blocks of colour with little texture or pattern will draw attention to your height. Consider a herringbone or glen check.

Medium Brown Linen Suit

Medium Brown Linen Suit

6 Wide Leg Tailored Jeans

Invest in bespoke or custom-tailored jeans so you can ensure a certain standard of width (the knee measurement of the jean being 2-3″ wider than your calf measurement; it’ll help to balance out your tall physique.

Wide Leg Jean

Wide Leg Jean

7 Bespoke Safari Jackets & Custom-Tailored Trenchcoats

Outerwear clothing such as Bespoke Safari Jackets and Custom-Tailored Trenchcoats pull attention away from your height due to multiple factors such as pockets which draw the eye across your body (horizontal); belts across the waist of the safari jacket or trenchcoat can make the waist look slimmer and the upper-body broader. Additionally, the length of your trenchcoat should fall 2-3″ below the knee which will mask your long legs.

Safari Jacket

Blue Bespoke Safari Jacket in 100% Linen

Why not book a fitting at a Senszio Trunk Show near you? Our expert travelling tailors will talk you through every detail of your bespoke suit, including more tips on how to compliment your taller frame.