How to choose suit colors and fabric patterns

When it comes to a bespoke suit, color and patterns are the choices that can really make you stand out. You probably would have already thought about the use and the style of your suit but the next decision is regarding suit colors. You can select the best cut and fabric for your bespoke suit, and your personal tailor will ensure to give you the perfect look.

Color
If your suit is going to be worn in an office environment, there are two distinct looks you can achieve. Choose deep blue or a charcoal suit color if you are in a position of leadership. These dark colors will not be distracting and will lend an aura of professionalism and comfort to your personality. If you need to influence and convince, you can go for a blue to add creativity and vigor to your pitches and presentations. For a leisure suit, the sky is the limit, and a flashy color will definitely turn heads. Although, a leisure suit cannot be worn on every social occasion! The formal bespoke suit is always best when sticking to a traditional look. Like the Model, you can have one as long as it is a dark color.

How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Charcoal Black Office Menswear

Patterns
There is a wide array of patterns you can consider for your suit. Ranging from very obvious checker board patterns and thick pin stripes, to subtle herringbones and thin pin stripes. For the office, going subtle with your patterns is a great way to sneak in a little bit of style without overpowering. If you want to go big with your bespoke jacket, just remember to wear a pair of mute trousers to avoid clashing.

For your leisure suit, if going for a bright and flashy color, don’t over power it with a complex flashy pattern like a check or wide pinstripe. Just remember that it is easy to add accents to a suit with a bright tie, but it is impossible to tone down a bright and flashy suit with any kind of accessory. For formal suits, keep it very subtle, limiting to textured patterns. You don’t want to ruin the crisp dark look.

How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Gey Pinstripe
How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Burgundy Maroon Blazer Jacket Casual

Customising
There are many places to sneak in a little bit of flair without ruining the look of your suit. The inner lining is the most popular place to really express your creativity. As it is completely covered when the suit is being worn, having a very bright color or complex pattern is not a problem. Another place to add hidden flair is inside the collar. Next is all the small details, such as the buttons, the button hole thread, monograms and others. If you want any suggestions, your tailor can guide you towards the appropriate choices. Customization is not limited to only colorful fabrics. It could be anything that you can think of and your tailor will try his best to incorporate. Customization really lets you be quite creative!

Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Skulls Roses 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Rainbow Skulls 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Horse Riding 525x700

The best way to ensure that you really nail down your stylistic choices is to go to a master tailor. At Senszio, our 3rd generation craftsmen have been suiting the well-dressed gentleman with a keen sense of style. Book an appointment here.

The psychology of color behind your lawyer suits

When it comes to being a great lawyer, it’s all about forging the correct arsenal. From research, arguments, retorts and wit, one seldom remembered weapon is dress code. We all know it is important to dress to impress, but the colour of your suit can shape how people view you, and thus how effective you are as a lawyer. Here is a short guide to using colour in your lawyer suits:

Beige/Tan Lawyer Suits
Earth tone lawyer suits help you to look more humble, approachable, trustworthy and honest. It helps with the underdog story, in appealing to people’s empathy and generosity. Great if dealing with people you have to convince to your side, perhaps a jury, or in a class action, or when talking to people with small town values, like the elderly or country folk. Whenever it is the individual that is making the decision, not corporate, beige or tan suits are the way to go.

Lawyer Suit Dress Code Court Trial Jury Beige Tan Nice Honest 550 X 825

Blue/Grey Lawyer Suits
Blue or Grey lawyer suits help you to look, smart, hardworking and energetic. These suits are best used in friendly encounters with corporate clients, or when dealing with bureaucracy and those who are already on your side. The blue or grey suit is your baseline suit, and works best as your dependable everyday work horse.

Lawyer Suit Dress Code Court Trial Jury Navy Double Breasted Smart Suit 550 X 825

Charcoal Lawyer Suits
The charcoal lawyer suit is your war suit. It exudes power, dominance and conviction. It is a statement that the time to prepare is over, and the time of reckoning is at hand. Use it to show intimidation when meeting at negotiations which you anticipate to be hostile, or meetings where you know that you can bully down the opposition.

Lawyer Suit Dress Code Court Trial Jury Black Power Suit 550x781

Each colour of your lawyer suits have their strengths, but to really make them shine they have to be used passingly. Especially when interacting with the same jury or judge over many days. If you always wear your charcoal intimidation suit, it doesn’t become so intimidating. If you always wear your beige nice-guy suit, it can quickly limit it’s impact. When you are going into those confrontations or meetings where you need that last edge to really push you over the top, think about your lawyer suits.

Senszio is more than happy to outfit you with what you need form our master craftsmen. Check our appointment schedule here.

What is a Milanese Buttonhole, and why do I need one?

Back when jackets still closed at the top, the boutonniere was a functioning buttonhole. It’s purpose was to allow closing your jacket all the way up. Today it is instead for the adorning of flowers, lapel pins and the occasional monocle clips. The word boutonniere is in fact the French word for buttonhole, and a certain tailoring technique can add new distinction to the lapel.

For added distinction, opt for the “cherry on top” of suit finishing. A trend made popular in Paris is the boutonnière Milanaise, or in English, the Milanese buttonhole.

Milanese Button Hole 980x500 1

Craftmanship of a Milanese Buttonhole
Cut and stitched by hand, the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel of your jacket will provide a unique touch of elegance and prestige to your bespoke suit. Believed to have originated in Italy and then made popular by Italian tailors in France, the Milanese buttonhole is the apex of a fundamentally tailored suit. You will be hard pressed to find functioning buttonholes on most off-the-rack suits, let alone fully functioning finishing touches like this.

The offering of a Milanese buttonhole is something only a quality tailor can provide. Where machine made buttonholes have the lapel buttonhole stitched by machine and cut afterwards, the Milanese must be cut first and then carefully hand-stitched after. It involves a piece of thread called a “gimp” which is hand-stitched to surround the buttonhole.

To the left on the blue check lapel (below) we see a traditional buttonhole. While still a superbly crafted and fully functional buttonhole, this style does not require the same level of craftsmanship as the Milanese examples next to it. Notice the higher raised surface and smooth sheen. The silk threads are wound around the gimp and tightly next to each other in order to achieve this aesthetic quality. Depending on your tailor, they can be done in various shapes.

Milanese Button Hole Examples 600x422

The Milanese buttonhole requires extra labour but it is a detail our distinguished clients opt for. Pair your handsome mug next to one of these on your next jacket and you might just bring the suit-connoisseurs in your office out of the woodwork! Simply ask your Senszio tailor to add one on your next order with us for an additional touch of style.

Taking your tailored suit lining to the next level

The suit lining can be a great place to express your own personal touches, and cement the tailored suit look. Made out of a fine fabric like silk or a silk blend, the lining encases the entire inner surface of the suit. It would be a waste to simply let your tailor fill it with a drab grey or black. Here are some tips to really make that suit lining pop.

Hide some color
While you are wearing your suit, no one will be able to get a good look at your suit liner. This allows you to sneak in bold and brash colours that otherwise would be less than formal at the workplace. Solid colours make for a subtle tweak to your suit lining, try a deep red or green for a more formal look, or a bright blue or pink for something flashier. Patterns are also a great way to sneak in some style, from a traditional paisley twist, or something captivatingly bizarre.

Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Comic Words 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Two Suits 525x700

Express your hobbies
Suit linings that are personal are great conversation starters. Avid sports fan? How about using the jersey of your favourite player as a lining? Or if you are a wine connoisseur, a mosaic of wine labels might be more to your tastes. When people catch a glimpse of these unique linings, it is a fantastic opportunity to build a rapport over a conversation you are truly interested in.

Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Horse Riding 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Romance Comics 525x700

Get inventive
Suit Linings are also great places to hide little secrets or go high tech. Want a winter suit that looks like a summer suit? Sneak in a second lining of wind blocking material beneath the silk one. Create little pockets in obscure locations to hide away cash when travelling, or sew in an RFID chip to magically open doors at the office.

Whatever you can think of, your tailor will be able to make it work. Even more so, a unique addition or funky choice will probably make his day. Don’t let your suit lining go to waste, choose something to really make your tailored suit, your own. Our master tailors are experts at unique designs and suit linings. Check our schedule to book an appointment here.

Here’s a few more fun ones from some of our clients.

Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Cartoon Lady 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Horse Riding 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Skulls Roses 525x700
Behind the Tailor’s Table: Choosing a lapel style

The lapel makes the jacket, yet it is usually not something that we think too much about. Peak, Notch, Shawl? What will look best for my body type? These types of questions will usually be left to the tailor’s discretion, but traditionally there is only one real rule as to what lapel is appropriate: occasion. Other factors may sway you from one lapel style to another, but occasion is the most logical starting point when considering lapel options.

The Notch Lapel Style
Defined by its distinctive notch at the widest part of the lapel, the Notch is a lapel style most befitting business wear. The most versatile of lapel types, it helps slim the figure with its distinctively thinner lapel widths. Both versatile and fashionable, the Notch lapel is the go to for wardrobe staples or first suits.

Suit Lapel Styles Notch Lapel Style Grey Overcheck Jacket Wool Linen

The Peak Lapel Style
The Peak is a classic British lapel style, becoming more popular as the workplace becomes casual and wearing sports jackets become commonplace. They are defined by their large lapel width and sharp ‘Peaks’ where the fabric joins. The style is much more versatile than in the past and something to consider for adding a touch of casual style to your look. Peak Lapels are an absolute must for a double-breasted jacket.

Suit Lapel Styles Peak Lapel Style Blue Jacket Wool Linen

The Shawl Lapel Style
The thinnest of lapels, the Shawl lapel style has seen a modernist revival in fashion. With no cuts or permutations at all, the sleek look of the Shawl lapel is the perfect fit for that power tuxedo look. Slimming and unobtrusive, the Shawl lapel style has also begun to creep into mainstream fashion, cropping up on casual and office wear jackets as well.

Suit Lapel Styles Shawl Lapel Style Tuxedo Jacket Bow Tie Senszio

While the old adage goes, Shawl and Peak for formal and Notch for everything else, times are changing and social fashion conceptions are always being pushed. Ask your tailor at the next fitting and we could even create something truly unique for your next suit. Just don’t ask us to put a Notch lapel on a tuxedo!

Posted by Senszio, book an appointment with our bespoke master suit makers today.

From the master’s wardrobe – center vent or side vent

The Vent is a stylistic choice few have any idea about when they come in for their bespoke suit. Making your jacket wearable and flexible is possible with slits cut into the jacket. These are called the vents, and bespoke tailoring offers them in 2 options: side vent and center vent.

Featuredimage Vent Styles

The one on the left with two cuts on either side creating a back flap, is the side vent. The one on the right with the cut down in the middle is the center vent. The difference they make is in the way the bespoke suit shapes the back and the buttocks.

The rear flap caused by the side vent may sit atop a particularly large behind and separate away from the sides of the suit, which would emphasise the size of what it was attempting to cover. The center vent will not have this problem as it cannot separate at too dire a degree.

However, the side vent also creates two very straight edges down the sides of the bespoke suit. This gives the illusion of length and can subtly disguise a persons more curvy figure. The side vent also prevents a jacket from riding up while sitting, as the back flap can separate away from the sides, avoiding the fabric from bunching up uncomfortably. The center vent offers no such comfort.

In Short
If you are looking for a everyday suit, the side vents are superior. They offer a higher level of comfort, especially in an office environment where you will be sitting quite a lot. The cut forms the bespoke suit’s straight edges, offering a longer and leaner look and finally the vents create a lighter and more breathable suit, perfect for summer months and hot climates.

If you are looking for a formal suit, the center vent emphasises a lean figure very tastefully. At an event or party, you are more likely to be standing. This causes the additional comforts of a center vent to be negligible.

Make note of these elements during the bespoke tailoring process. Though subtle, it is these subtleties that add up to the polished look gentlemen strive for.

Chicago tailored music
Green Mill Musicians Chicago Rebecca Anne
The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge, 1929. Photo courtesy of Rebecca Anne

The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge, 1929

At the height of Big Band Jams, one location was attracting all the right talent, and all the wrong guests. The musicians would play their sets nervously, while the conductor kept one eye on his sheets the other on the maitre d’. The front door swung open, a snap of his fingers, the band switches to Rhapsody in Blue, Al Capone’s favorite song. He walked in and handed his long brown woolen overcoat. A subtle beaver-fur lined the collar and large black round buttons. Underneath he was wearing his trade mark Chicago tailored three-piece suit. A single-breasted jacket, in a rich dark blue with a soft pinstripe, made from the finest wool and lined inside with silk. His vest hides a white shirt with a stiff collar, as he walks through the club, into a back room not to be seen again. At this time, music was big and the men bold. A time when Chicago tailored music much like a bespoke master tailors a suit.

Senszio Journal Pat Rushing Maxwell Street Blues Band 1981
Maxwell Street, 1958. Photo courtesy of Chicago Blues Guide

Maxwell Street, 1958

Walking down Maxwell street is a trip into blues history. The sidewalk saw groups of performers playing Muddy Water’s famous Hoochie Coochie Man. Bright colors make their suits stand out among the crowds. Their large broad lapels left open with an equally high collared shirt, loosely buttoned beneath, partly due to the sweltering summer heat, partly to look cool. Each suit unique to each musician, their Chicago tailored suits could be recognized up and down. As the weather changed, so did the mood of the music, more soulfull and deeper, the colors changed to muted browns and greens, thicker woolen fabrics with tweed caps. Though a more toned down approach did not mean a sacrifice to quality, much like the soothing tones of their mumbled blues, the brass still shone in their Chicago tailored suits.

Senszio Journal The Milk Room At Chicago Athletic Association Hotel Speakeasy
The Milk Room, 2014. Photo courtesy of Land And Sea Department

The Milk Room, 2014

Before or after show drinks have been known to set the right tone. An imposing façade of historic limestone blocks framed by beautiful multi story windows dwarfs the buildings surrounding The Chicago Athletic Association. Directly opposite millennium park there is no other real estate more prestigious, no building more dominating and nowhere more sublime. Within lies a rare gem, a speakeasy so popular it’s 8 seat capacity has remained filled well after 1933. Inside the Milk room sits 8 Sharp Chicago tailored suits. Ties are thin, if worn at all, and lapels have shrunk to barely two and a half inches wide. The suit is trim, confident and straight. Grey is out in favor of black and deep blue, and now 2 buttons instead of three. Minimalism and a tight fit completes the look as they sip quietly through the finest prohibition era spirits and cocktails. Drinks untampered since 1925, an ancient lineage of quality and tradition mirrored in tailored suits alike.

Music makes this city, and a good Chicago Tailored suit makes a man. Start dressing with confidence, click here for when we will be back in the windy city and seize 2017.

Does your suit match your stature?

The center of the world’s most influential cities brings in money, knowledge and power. In such a competitive and fearsome environment, the need for a proper urban suit style is paramount. Your bespoke suit speaks before your mouth does, it tells people more about your personality and stature than a business card. Being on the cusp of style will push you to the top and Senszio is here to help.

Featuredimage Urban Suit Style 3 Suit Collage

The Professional
Whether your profession is a Banker, Lawyer or Accountant, walking into meetings dressed well is winning half of the battle. This look focuses on nailing down the simplest details to absolute perfection. The cut starts off with square and perfectly trim shoulders, portraying strength and stoicism. This leads to a thin lapel rolling down to a set of buttons. Keeping with tradition the pockets have flaps and the colours a deep navy blue. This conjures an image of tried and tested proofs, a look that offers only results and not surprises.

Urban Suit Style Professional Navy Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Loro Piana Four Season Super 130’s 100% Wool, Single-Breasted, 2-Buttons, Notch Lapels, Flap Pockets.

The Creative
This bespoke suit hides in plain sight. The muter tones juxtapose the bursting creativity from the wearer, helping to keep in balance the wilder ideas, and reinforcing the sensible. The wide open lapel lets ideas spring forth, and the additional pocket shows that this is no typical man. The tie is foregone to exude a more relaxed and artistic mindset. This is the suit of the asymmetrical, the revolutionary, the muse. This suit makes the mind of the wearer stand out, and also grounds them within the realm of possibility.

Urban Suit Style Creative Brown Wool Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Ermenegildo Zegna 95% Wool – 5% Cashmere, Single Breasted, 2 Button, High Cut Notch Lapel, Cash Pocket.

The Entrepreneur
Half the work of being an entrepreneur is getting people excited. The sharp lines of the lapel and the slim trim of the suit emphasizes the wearers excitement. The bright colours mirror those of bright profits and the sheerness of simplicity changes minds. The flap-less deep pockets add to the magic as the wearer of this suit feeds the dreams of others.

Urban Suit Style Entreprenuer Light Blue Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino, Pure Hemp, Single Breasted, 2 Button, Peak Lapel, Lower Patch Pockets.

Ready for your perfect bespoke suit of urban armour? Senszio’s expert craftsmen have honed their skills over generations of tailoring. Sit and discuss your perfect bespoke suit and choose over hundreds of fabric choices, lining choices and all the little details that make your suit unique. Check our tour schedule and book an appointment here.

The history of bespoke tailoring

Bespoke tailoring slowly developed over the course of history along with mankind. The need for protection from the elements has honed the skills of clothiers, sewers and dyers over the years into a culmination of skills specializing in clothing man. As the need for protection was slowly outweighed by the need of style, comfort and class, bespoke tailoring was born.

Savile Row Tailoring At Henry Poole And Co. London England Uk 1944 D21862

While that may be a somewhat uninspiring history of bespoke tailoring, the real spark that set apart ‘bespoke’ meaning individually patterned and crafted men’s clothing, was in Saville row London. The golden mile of tailoring, as it was known, was where the term ‘bespoke tailoring’ was first used and where the craft was taken to new heights. It was here that the norms and ethos of formal gentlemen’s style was innovated and perfected.

The business of bespoke tailoring reached across the world, as shops specializing in men’s suit wear were eager to provide the ultimate in gentlemen’s clothing. One hot bed for the business was in Hong Kong, a major port city in the South China Sea. Many American navy men would stop over in Hong Kong on shore leave, where they enjoyed the city nightlife as well as picking up a fine tailored suit.

This constant stream of business was what first started the tailoring boom in Hong Kong, leading to an entire generation of skilled craftsman, a wealth of knowledge and a deep-seated love of the art. Soon it wasn’t just sailors coming to Hong Kong for a suit, it was businessmen, politicians and even presidents. This climate is where our founder, Mark Motwani, fresh out of university, first entered the world of tailoring.

Through hard work and a will to succeed, Mark started his own tailoring company and grew from humble beginnings to be now known worldwide. Senszio is present in over 12 countries across Europe and the Americas providing expertly handcrafted suits for the discerning gentlemen. Check their tour schedule and book an appointment here.

The ultimate exclusivity of bespoke tailoring

Our lives have slowly been decided upon by big corporations of this world. In the past all clothing was bespoke tailoring, when you bought a pair of pants they would ask what length it should be cut to. If you bought a Shirt they would ask what sleeve length you needed. Our clothes were measured in centimeters and inches. As the march of progress continues we have lost this individuality, we have moved to arbitrary sizes, small, medium, large.

Feb 2017 New Homepage 2

Imagine a clothing store that always had your size. A clothing store that had all the styles and colours you wanted. A clothing store where instead of choosing from a selection of mediocre choices, the store listened to you. Listened to what style you wanted, what colour you wanted and exactly what size you wanted. This is the ultimate exclusivity of bespoke tailoring. Let us walk you through the process as one of our Chicago clients.

Break out from the thumb of Gap, Zara or Brooks Brothers. Instead of walking into a storefront with drones of others on a busy weekday, take the elevator up to our private suite high above the buzz of the city to craft a one-of-a-kind suit, shirt, jacket, coat or tuxedo. The freedom of your bespoke tailored suit will be felt mind, body and soul. Chicago bespoke suits from a top tailor such as, Senszio, is not just a purchase for your wardrobe, but a thrilling, luxurious and enlightening experience all in itself. It all starts with booking an appointment to your first sitting and making sure you are ready to go.

When you arrive at the Intercontinental Chicago Magnificent Mile our tailor will greet you in the lobby and take you up to our suite overlooking the Chicago River and neighboring buildings. Talk with your tailor about what you want, a business suit, a tuxedo or something more casual so he can prepare the correct measurements. When you are ready the fitting can begin.

After measurements are taken, browse over 300 different choices in the latest suit materials, shirt materials and suit linings. Trust your own instincts and make the suit just as you imagined, with your tailor to help guide you along the way. Once the components of your Chicago bespoke suit are chosen, the real fun begins. Think over any special details and adornments to truly personalize your tailored suit. Think about monograms, buttonhole colors, special pockets or any of these wild changes.

After everything is set, master craftsmen get to work. Think of something you want to change in the 2-3 weeks for your suit to be completed? No problem, just give your tailor a call and almost anything can be worked out. Begin now with Senszio, Check our tour schedule here.