From the master’s wardrobe – center vent or side vent

The Vent is a stylistic choice few have any idea about when they come in for their bespoke suit. Making your jacket wearable and flexible is possible with slits cut into the jacket. These are called the vents, and bespoke tailoring offers them in 2 options: side vent and center vent.

Featuredimage Vent Styles

The one on the left with two cuts on either side creating a back flap, is the side vent. The one on the right with the cut down in the middle is the center vent. The difference they make is in the way the bespoke suit shapes the back and the buttocks.

The rear flap caused by the side vent may sit atop a particularly large behind and separate away from the sides of the suit, which would emphasise the size of what it was attempting to cover. The center vent will not have this problem as it cannot separate at too dire a degree.

However, the side vent also creates two very straight edges down the sides of the bespoke suit. This gives the illusion of length and can subtly disguise a persons more curvy figure. The side vent also prevents a jacket from riding up while sitting, as the back flap can separate away from the sides, avoiding the fabric from bunching up uncomfortably. The center vent offers no such comfort.

In Short
If you are looking for a everyday suit, the side vents are superior. They offer a higher level of comfort, especially in an office environment where you will be sitting quite a lot. The cut forms the bespoke suit’s straight edges, offering a longer and leaner look and finally the vents create a lighter and more breathable suit, perfect for summer months and hot climates.

If you are looking for a formal suit, the center vent emphasises a lean figure very tastefully. At an event or party, you are more likely to be standing. This causes the additional comforts of a center vent to be negligible.

Make note of these elements during the bespoke tailoring process. Though subtle, it is these subtleties that add up to the polished look gentlemen strive for.

Chicago tailored music
Green Mill Musicians Chicago Rebecca Anne
The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge, 1929. Photo courtesy of Rebecca Anne

The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge, 1929

At the height of Big Band Jams, one location was attracting all the right talent, and all the wrong guests. The musicians would play their sets nervously, while the conductor kept one eye on his sheets the other on the maitre d’. The front door swung open, a snap of his fingers, the band switches to Rhapsody in Blue, Al Capone’s favorite song. He walked in and handed his long brown woolen overcoat. A subtle beaver-fur lined the collar and large black round buttons. Underneath he was wearing his trade mark Chicago tailored three-piece suit. A single-breasted jacket, in a rich dark blue with a soft pinstripe, made from the finest wool and lined inside with silk. His vest hides a white shirt with a stiff collar, as he walks through the club, into a back room not to be seen again. At this time, music was big and the men bold. A time when Chicago tailored music much like a bespoke master tailors a suit.

Senszio Journal Pat Rushing Maxwell Street Blues Band 1981
Maxwell Street, 1958. Photo courtesy of Chicago Blues Guide

Maxwell Street, 1958

Walking down Maxwell street is a trip into blues history. The sidewalk saw groups of performers playing Muddy Water’s famous Hoochie Coochie Man. Bright colors make their suits stand out among the crowds. Their large broad lapels left open with an equally high collared shirt, loosely buttoned beneath, partly due to the sweltering summer heat, partly to look cool. Each suit unique to each musician, their Chicago tailored suits could be recognized up and down. As the weather changed, so did the mood of the music, more soulfull and deeper, the colors changed to muted browns and greens, thicker woolen fabrics with tweed caps. Though a more toned down approach did not mean a sacrifice to quality, much like the soothing tones of their mumbled blues, the brass still shone in their Chicago tailored suits.

Senszio Journal The Milk Room At Chicago Athletic Association Hotel Speakeasy
The Milk Room, 2014. Photo courtesy of Land And Sea Department

The Milk Room, 2014

Before or after show drinks have been known to set the right tone. An imposing façade of historic limestone blocks framed by beautiful multi story windows dwarfs the buildings surrounding The Chicago Athletic Association. Directly opposite millennium park there is no other real estate more prestigious, no building more dominating and nowhere more sublime. Within lies a rare gem, a speakeasy so popular it’s 8 seat capacity has remained filled well after 1933. Inside the Milk room sits 8 Sharp Chicago tailored suits. Ties are thin, if worn at all, and lapels have shrunk to barely two and a half inches wide. The suit is trim, confident and straight. Grey is out in favor of black and deep blue, and now 2 buttons instead of three. Minimalism and a tight fit completes the look as they sip quietly through the finest prohibition era spirits and cocktails. Drinks untampered since 1925, an ancient lineage of quality and tradition mirrored in tailored suits alike.

Music makes this city, and a good Chicago Tailored suit makes a man. Start dressing with confidence, click here for when we will be back in the windy city and seize 2017.

Does your suit match your stature?

The center of the world’s most influential cities brings in money, knowledge and power. In such a competitive and fearsome environment, the need for a proper urban suit style is paramount. Your bespoke suit speaks before your mouth does, it tells people more about your personality and stature than a business card. Being on the cusp of style will push you to the top and Senszio is here to help.

Featuredimage Urban Suit Style 3 Suit Collage

The Professional
Whether your profession is a Banker, Lawyer or Accountant, walking into meetings dressed well is winning half of the battle. This look focuses on nailing down the simplest details to absolute perfection. The cut starts off with square and perfectly trim shoulders, portraying strength and stoicism. This leads to a thin lapel rolling down to a set of buttons. Keeping with tradition the pockets have flaps and the colours a deep navy blue. This conjures an image of tried and tested proofs, a look that offers only results and not surprises.

Urban Suit Style Professional Navy Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Loro Piana Four Season Super 130’s 100% Wool, Single-Breasted, 2-Buttons, Notch Lapels, Flap Pockets.

The Creative
This bespoke suit hides in plain sight. The muter tones juxtapose the bursting creativity from the wearer, helping to keep in balance the wilder ideas, and reinforcing the sensible. The wide open lapel lets ideas spring forth, and the additional pocket shows that this is no typical man. The tie is foregone to exude a more relaxed and artistic mindset. This is the suit of the asymmetrical, the revolutionary, the muse. This suit makes the mind of the wearer stand out, and also grounds them within the realm of possibility.

Urban Suit Style Creative Brown Wool Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Ermenegildo Zegna 95% Wool – 5% Cashmere, Single Breasted, 2 Button, High Cut Notch Lapel, Cash Pocket.

The Entrepreneur
Half the work of being an entrepreneur is getting people excited. The sharp lines of the lapel and the slim trim of the suit emphasizes the wearers excitement. The bright colours mirror those of bright profits and the sheerness of simplicity changes minds. The flap-less deep pockets add to the magic as the wearer of this suit feeds the dreams of others.

Urban Suit Style Entreprenuer Light Blue Senszio Bespoke 847x522
Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino, Pure Hemp, Single Breasted, 2 Button, Peak Lapel, Lower Patch Pockets.

Ready for your perfect bespoke suit of urban armour? Senszio’s expert craftsmen have honed their skills over generations of tailoring. Sit and discuss your perfect bespoke suit and choose over hundreds of fabric choices, lining choices and all the little details that make your suit unique. Check our tour schedule and book an appointment here.

The world’s most expensive suits

Looking at Kanye West’s million dollar hobo outfit might make you think that is the most expensive garment you could buy, but you would be wrong. When it comes to bespoke tailoring, the sky (and your wallet) is the limit. In our 3 decades of suiting wealthy and powerful men around the world, we have come across some very expensive suits that took bespoke luxury to new heights.

Fancy Custom Burgundy Check Jacket

The Fabric
Of course the most common place our clients have splurged is in the fabric itself. At Senszio we have a wide selection of fabrics ranging from the economic to the ultra-premium. The top of the lot are the finest Zegna fabrics from traditional fabric mills in Italy. Extravagant luxury can be found in Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino’s 24K line which blends precious wools with 24 carat gold! Sporting exclusive elegance such as this is not cheap with one of these suits costing over $15,000 USD. Now that is one expensive suit. It is not just the material of the fabric that makes a fabric expensive. The efforts of the master weavers and dyers create for some of the most exciting and strikingly stylish patterns out there. Truly quality you can see and feel.

Expensive Suits Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino 24k Gold Leaf Fabric Lingotto Carnet 950 410

The Lining
Another example where most people take their personalisation to the extreme is the lining. There are almost no restrictions to what the lining can be, and some of our clients have taken this as a challenge. One of our more memorable additions was a football fan who had the lining of his suit made with a signed jersey from his favourite team. Others examples of expensive suits have gotten lining made from fine silk detailed with golden embroidery. We have even seen people come in requesting that a customised scene be hand sewn straight into the lining thread by thread!

Expensive Suits Lining Selection Silk Pattern Fabric Choice 400x600

Expensive Suits Extras
Gold buttons not your thing? No problem go bigger, platinum buttons! Diamond buttons! Most people would definitely agree that golden buttons are enough. However, one special suit we tailored did have a tiny diamond for the button on the inside pocket. Golden thread for the button holes and on the inner lining is a more austere way to also add gold to your suit.

Expensive Suits 24k Gold Real Solid Buttons Thread Needle Suit 500x200

In conclusion, we relish the opportunity to create such luxury garments. If you have a special request such as these, at Senszio our master tailors are here to help. Suiting for discerning gentlemen around the world, your wish is our command. Check our tour schedule here and book an appointment.