TAILORING GLOSSARY

Baste – loose assembly for first fitting

Balance – adjusting front and back length according to posture

Bespoke – items made from scratch to specific measurements and requirements

Blazer – Casual woolen jacket

Block – thick block of wood for pressing to set or seal the steam

Cabbage – left-over material that the cutter keeps

Canvas – wool or linen canvas used to add body to jackets

Cashmere – luxury fiber from Falconeri goats

Classic collar – shirt collar with wings cut straight and downwards

Cummerbund – a waist sash often worn with black ties

Cutaway collar – shirt collar cut away towards the shoulder; also called Windsor

Dinner suit – worn for formal occasions including weddings

Drape – the way a fabric hangs

Fabric – Yarns or fibers woven together

Flannel – woolen yarn slightly twisted and open-textured

Four cord – strands of thread entwined and sealed for sewing on buttons

French cuff – formal cuff folded back and fastened with cufflinks

Gimp – thread for buttonhole stitching

Gorge – the notch formed where the collar attaches to the lapel

Harris Tweed – woven tweed from Scotland

Hem – fabric at the bottom of item turned up

Houndstooth – design in small broken checks

Inlay – extra fabric in a seam to allow alteration in future

Jetted pockets – pocket with no flap

Loom – machine that weaves cloth

Made to measure – garment from standard pattern made to precise measurements

Master tailor – business owner who employs tailors

Melton – the felt under a jacket collar

Merino wool – super-silky; the finest commercial sheep wool

Mohair – lustrous fiber from Angora goats

Morning suit – daytime formal attire with tailcoat and waistcoat/vest

Notch lapel – standard lapel with notch cut out

Optima – cotton used for pockets, banding and sleeve cuffs

Peak lapel – standard lapel in a peak for double- breasted suits

Pleat – flat fabric allowing extra room in item

Satin – smooth, glossy fabric

Savile Row – street in London home to British tailoring

Scye – jacket armhole

Tactile property – the way an item fits

Tailor – makes, repairs, and alters clothing

Tuxedo – US term for formal evening jacket

Tweed – woolen weaves originally made in Scotland

Vent – slit in back of jackets or coats

Waistcoat/vest – sleeveless items worn with jacket

Warp – vertical threads

Weft – horizontal threads

Worsted – light cloth made of long staple combed woolen yarn

Yarn count - denote the size/weight of yarn

Yarn – length of fibers and/or filaments with or without twist.

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