Back when jackets still closed at the top, the boutonniere was a functioning buttonhole. It’s purpose was to allow closing your jacket all the way up. Today it is instead for the adorning of flowers, lapel pins and the occasional monocle clips. The word boutonniere is in fact the French word for buttonhole, and a certain tailoring technique can add new distinction to the lapel.
For added distinction, opt for the “cherry on top” of suit finishing. A trend made popular in Paris is the boutonnière Milanaise, or in English, the Milanese buttonhole.
Craftmanship of a Milanese Buttonhole
Cut and stitched by hand, the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel of your jacket will provide a unique touch of elegance and prestige to your bespoke suit. Believed to have originated in Italy and then made popular by Italian tailors in France, the Milanese buttonhole is the apex of a fundamentally tailored suit. You will be hard pressed to find functioning buttonholes on most off-the-rack suits, let alone fully functioning finishing touches like this.
The offering of a Milanese buttonhole is something only a quality tailor can provide. Where machine made buttonholes have the lapel buttonhole stitched by machine and cut afterwards, the Milanese must be cut first and then carefully hand-stitched after. It involves a piece of thread called a “gimp” which is hand-stitched to surround the buttonhole.
To the left on the blue check lapel (below) we see a traditional buttonhole. While still a superbly crafted and fully functional buttonhole, this style does not require the same level of craftsmanship as the Milanese examples next to it. Notice the higher raised surface and smooth sheen. The silk threads are wound around the gimp and tightly next to each other in order to achieve this aesthetic quality. Depending on your tailor, they can be done in various shapes.
The Milanese buttonhole requires extra labour but it is a detail our distinguished clients opt for. Pair your handsome mug next to one of these on your next jacket and you might just bring the suit-connoisseurs in your office out of the woodwork! Simply ask your Senszio tailor to add one on your next order with us for an additional touch of style.The Stallion – Hopsack jacket and Navy Trousers
The Stallion always looks his best, either when strutting around the field, or charging into battle. Next smart casual event, consider a Hopsack Jacket with Navy Super 150 trousers completed with a white cotton shirt for the Stallion Look.
The Jacket (Hopsack)
This Brown Hopsack Senszio jacket is crafted from Vitale Barberis Canonico, made in Italy, and is a fine example of the simple yet beautiful Hopsack loose weave. Made from wool, the coarseness of the pattern creates a slight fuzz, muting shadows and lights that may otherwise cause you to look unkempt. Perfect for outdoor meetings or events where you may be slightly active, but still need to look your best.
Similar variations of this look can be achieved through the use of these select fabrics.
The Super 150’s fabric from Reda is made from 100% virgin wool and really adds to the luster of these Navy trousers. Such a fine fabric, contrasts with the Hopsack Jacket allowing you to still maintain a kempt and stylish appearance when the jacket comes off in hot weather. All of Reda’s fabrics are sublime, but for those peculiar with their thread counts, can go for their Super 150s or Super 160s.
A white cotton shirt is never as simple as it seems. This bespoke example is from Thomas Mason’s classic 100% cotton Twill. Recently releasing their new 2018 Spring/Summer Collection, Thomas Mason has lifted from their aura of traditional styles to the bold and exotic. If you are looking for more depth to your white shirt, you can always go for one of their more adventures patterns, like the Oxford or Poplin.
For your next smart casual event, think the Stallion Look. Your tailor will be more than happy to show you fabric choices at your next appointment. John Lennon sunglasses not included!Thomas Mason 2018 New Fabrics – A Quick Look
Thomas Mason has a fresh 2018 catalogue that has reinvented gentlemen’s style with their premium shirt fabrics. Not only focusing on office wear, Thomas Mason’s leisure and special occasion fabrics marks a distinct sense of couture for this Italian fabric mill. Their finest quality fabrics are represented in their Noble line, with Giza 45 cotton.
Oxford and Piquet
Infinitesimal details camouflage the wearer of Oxford and Piquet fabric. From afar, the pinpoint design with a warp 140/2 and a threefold weft by Thomas Mason blends into a subtle warmth. When up close, the intricate design can be seen in all it’s tailored glory. Shades of blue and white are perfect for sneaking in a fashionable touch for the work place, while utilizing the striped look of the Piquet for those days off.
The working horse weave of shirt fabrics, Poplin gets a dignified face lift from Thomas Mason. Its flat weave allows for greater air circulation, making them perfect for those summer months. The latest options provide unique offerings from David & John Anderson, the brand acquired by Albini Group in 1992 which specialises in the finest yarn counts and fabrics in the most exquisite materials. Styles with a tighter structure, like the Cullinan 300/2 make for smart lines when looking your best is important. Looser structures such as the Buckingham 140/2 could be mistaken for linen, but offer supreme comfort and breathability.
One of the oldest weaves developed in England, Twill’s diagonal pattern still dazzles with its illusionary sheen. Subtle criss-cross patterns in the cloth shows off Thomas Mason’s attention to detail in their signature Twill weave, Hampton. Ranging from stripes, checks and plain, the Hampton twill is a testament to Thomas Mason’s eye for skill and design. A close up comparison of the Super Hampton and Hampton highlights the differences between two seamingly same light blue fabrics.
Thomas Mason Seasonal Collections
2018 brought out the wilder side of Thomas Mason. The Warwick and Wallpaper lines of cloth are a playful addition to any wardrobe. Bright colours and amusingly questionable patterns show that just because you have an eye for the luxurious, doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with it. Twill checks and patterns also feature heavily this year, as does the Balmoral weave.
Some of these playful patterns require more complex stitching and dying than most fabrics. Turning the fabric over can reveal much about how the cloth was produced. Jacquards as seen in the examples below are the most complex weave due to the non-repeating images woven within the normal weave of the fabric. Thomas Mason’s Jacquard example, with navy blue dots, uses a technique called fil-coupé (literally means “cut threads” in French) which requires the pattern’s to be trimmed to remove excess threads on the underside. The detailing is most noticeable on the reverse side of the fabric. Rolling up your sleeves would reveal such elegant intricacies in your bespoke shirt.
Printed fabrics are becoming more popular as the process and technologies used to dye the surface of the fabric improves. The results are becoming more photo realistic as a result. These floral patterns below exhibit different styles. One with painting-like qualities and while the other mimics a stitched look.
What seem like your standard office wear fabrics are made special with their fabric contents and treatments. With the Balmoral incorporating cotton with cashmere, the breathability and wearability of Cotton is combined with the softness and warmth of Cashmere. Thomas Mason have also created a “Natural Comfort” fabric whose secret is enclosed in a special treatment that confers a natural elasticity without using any synthetic components.
Denim options are brought to us by Albiate 1830 selected by Thomas Mason. Their treatments are unique, such as enzyme washing and single or double bleaching, that bring out a charming vintage effect in the fabric. For those that travel but always want to look crisp and fresh, the Journey fabrics do not crease. Perfect for those who travel and don’t have time to iron or take their shirts in for a pressing.
To round off the new Thomas Mason catalog, there are fine zephyrs, as well as some relaxed linens. After over 300 years of meticulous quality, the 2018 collection holds true to this tradition with a spectacular collection. Arrange an appointment to feel the quality yourself here, and check our touring schedule here.Behind the Tailor’s Table: Choosing a lapel style
The lapel makes the jacket, yet it is usually not something that we think too much about. Peak, Notch, Shawl? What will look best for my body type? These types of questions will usually be left to the tailor’s discretion, but traditionally there is only one real rule as to what lapel is appropriate: occasion. Other factors may sway you from one lapel style to another, but occasion is the most logical starting point when considering lapel options.
The Notch Lapel Style
Defined by its distinctive notch at the widest part of the lapel, the Notch is a lapel style most befitting business wear. The most versatile of lapel types, it helps slim the figure with its distinctively thinner lapel widths. Both versatile and fashionable, the Notch lapel is the go to for wardrobe staples or first suits.
The Peak Lapel Style
The Peak is a classic British lapel style, becoming more popular as the workplace becomes casual and wearing sports jackets become commonplace. They are defined by their large lapel width and sharp ‘Peaks’ where the fabric joins. The style is much more versatile than in the past and something to consider for adding a touch of casual style to your look. Peak Lapels are an absolute must for a double-breasted jacket.
The Shawl Lapel Style
The thinnest of lapels, the Shawl lapel style has seen a modernist revival in fashion. With no cuts or permutations at all, the sleek look of the Shawl lapel is the perfect fit for that power tuxedo look. Slimming and unobtrusive, the Shawl lapel style has also begun to creep into mainstream fashion, cropping up on casual and office wear jackets as well.
While the old adage goes, Shawl and Peak for formal and Notch for everything else, times are changing and social fashion conceptions are always being pushed. Ask your tailor at the next fitting and we could even create something truly unique for your next suit. Just don’t ask us to put a Notch lapel on a tuxedo!
Posted by Senszio, book an appointment with our bespoke master suit makers today.Spring/Summer 2018 Style
Classically styled bespoke outfits for the modern gentleman.
Brown Hopsack Bespoke Jacket: Vitale Barberis Canonico 100% Wool woven in Italy.
Navy Bespoke Trouser: Reda Super 150’s 100% Pure Virgin Wool.
White Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine 100% Cotton 2-Ply Twill.
Brown Linen Bespoke Suit: Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino 100% Linen fabric woven in Italy.
Light Blue Pinstripe Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine 100% Pure Cotton fabric woven in Italy.
Navy Blue Glen Check Double Breasted Bespoke Suit: Brown Horn Buttons, Reda Super 150’s 100% Pure Wool woven in Italy.
White Spread Collar Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine Pure 100% Cotton 2-Ply Twill fabric woven in Italy.
Burgundy Bespoke Jacket: Vitale Barberis Canonico 75% Wool, 15% Silk, 10% Linen – fabric woven in Italy.
Off-White Bespoke Trousers: Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 130’s fabric woven in Italy.
White Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine Cotton 2-Ply Twill fabric woven in Italy.
Brown Hopsack Bespoke Jacket and Off-White Bespoke Trousers: Both made of Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 130’s 100% Wool fabric woven in Italy.
Light Blue Pinstripe Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine 100% Cotton fabric made in Italy.
Black Peak Lapel Bespoke Tuxedo: Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino 75% Wool / 25% Silk blended fabric woven in Italy.
White Pleated Tuxedo Bespoke Shirt with French Cuffs: Thomas Mason Superfine Pure 100% Cotton 2-Ply Twill fabric woven in Italy. Black tie event.
Grey Thin Pinstripe 3-Piece Bespoke Business Suit: Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino Super 130’s 100% Wool fabric woven in Italy. Wearing a formal U-Neck Waistcoat under jacket.
White Spread Collar Bespoke Shirt: Thomas Mason Superfine Pure 100% Cotton 2-Ply Twill woven in Italy.
Burgundy Structure Bespoke Jacket: Vitale Barberis Canonico 75% Wool, 15% Silk, 10% Linen fabric woven in Italy.
Off-White Bespoke Trousers: Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 130’s fabric woven in Italy.
White Spread Collar: Thomas Mason Superfine 100% Cotton 2-Ply Twill fabric woven in Italy.
Take the strength and intimidation of the Lion to your next board meeting. The lion look is a navy suit with thin pinstripes paired with a graph checked shirt to create the look of a pride leader.
The pinstripes of the jacket act as arrows drawing the eyes upward towards your head. This helps audiences better focus on you while presenting to small intimate groups. The pinstripes also exude an intimidating aura, giving your words more weight and power. Why else would this be the go to look for 1920’s mobsters?
Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino makes many classic pinstripe suit fabrics. You want to choose one with thin stripes, that does not draw the eye from a distance, but close up becomes noticeable. There are many choices to choose from in different shades of blue.
The checked shirt acts as your lion’s mane, amplifying your voice and your face. This pattern holds its form through creases and folds, giving a seamless look even when viewed from odd angles. The pattern creates the optical illusion that your attention is being focused on all audience members, even if you are not facing directly at them.
Thomas Mason’s Silver quality 100% Egyptian cotton with a graph check pattern has various patterns with slightly altered spacing, size and grid thickness. Each provides a slightly different aesthetic for this outfit style.
With the Lion look, your audiences will be captivated and your voice magnified. Subtle pinstripes and a graph checked shirt make you look sharp, professional and stylish. To view these fabrics in person and see countless other combination options, book an appointment with our bespoke master suit makers today!Pitto Uomo 93, The best dressed off the runway
One of the most significant annual men’s fashion events took place again in Italy. Pitti Uomo (this year named Pitti Immagine Uomo by incorporating the Pitti Immagine company) saw many great fall/winter styles both classic and edgy. Being connoisseurs of elegant yet classically timeless styles, we’ve compiled some great inspirations captured by the amazing photographers who attended the events. Make sure to click the photo to see more amazing shots from this great internationally acclaimed event!
There definitely was a lot of “peacocking” at this years Pitti Uomo event, as is the case every year. Making dandyism acceptable to a wider audience. However, the styles at Pitti this year were a bit more classic and down-to-earth. We think most people could gather some practical applications from these style icon’s wardrobe choices this year.
And just like that, Pitti Uomo is over. Although the menswear trade fair may not be what it used to, we're glad to see there are still gentleman out there who inspire us to raise our game. Like @philipconradsson here. Who wouldn't want to look this dashing? Tip of our hat to you Philip and all of the charming men we featured on our feed this week. Keep doing what you do so incredibly well / PITTI UOMO FW18 _____________________________ 📷: Robert Spangle for @britishgq . . . #thesecharmingmen #veryhandsomemen #mensfashion #mensstyle #streetstyle #mensstreetstyle #menswear #fashion #mensfashionpost #menwithstyle #sprezz #sprezzy #sprezzatura #fashionblogger #instagood #outfitoftheday #ootd #instafashion #instastyle #guyswithstyle #malemodel #pittiuomo
Pleated trousers wrapped in a double breasted overcoat with a matching cardigan and casual white cotton shirt. Modest yet sophisticated style snapped by Robert Spangle of Philip Conradsson, Fashion Editor at King Magazine.
From Florence @pittimmagine 🇮🇹 👉 Mr. @gui_bo ▫️ ▫️ ▫️ Quando vedi un uomo in abito provi sempre ad immaginare perché ha scelto quella stoffa e quel modello. Spesso il risultato finale ti porta a capire tutto. ▫️ ▫️ ▫️. When you see a man in a suit, you always try to imagine why he chose that fabric and that model. Often the final result leads you to understand everything. ▫️ ▫️ ▫️ #pitti #pittiimmagine #pitti93 #pittiuomo #gentleman #suit #ph #photographer
Catching Guillaume Bo mid-stride as he braves the Italian winter in a charcoal grey double breasted wool suit with a green umbrella. Gotta love that shirt collar with bar and wool tie.
Two generations of dapper gents.
A textured 3-piece suit, perfect for outdoor events.
British fashion journalist and author Simon Crompton sporting an extra large herringbone weave with dramatic rolling lapels in his overcoat. Looking great at Pitti Uomo with a nice three button charcoal suit underneath.
The guest country for Pitti Uomo this year was Finland. bringing the best Scandinavian designers to display their Nordic style and drawing the attention from these two stylish gents.
A menswear gathering such as this inspires busting out all the stops. Every pocket square, lapel boutonniere, bow tie and wrist watch in your closet must come out.
If you are as inspired as we are by these great looks, don’t hesitate to replicate or modify any of these styles for your own wardrobe. We have the fabric and the craftsmanship to accomplish these styles and many more. Don’t hesitate to reach out so we can collaborate and create a signature outfit just for you.Pitto Uomo: New gentlemen’s style for 2018
Fashion’s hippest convention, The Pitti Imagine Uomo, was the most successful and exhilarating one to date. Held in the dreamy city of Florence, Pitti Uomo attracts outliers and innovators of the fashion world to showcase the new modern look for 2018. This 4 day festival of course includes many fresh ideas and sharp fabrics for Men’s Wear.
Men’s wear took a sigh of relief in Pitti Uomo 93. Suits had a nomad feel to them, with relaxed silhouettes. A reflection of the bustling world we work in, designer’s have all decided we needed a holiday. Gabriele Pasini introduced a series of Flannel suits, trying to revive the Safari Cloak to stalk your way through busy streets. PT Pantaloni Torino has also opted for the slow road with vintage brushed wool and Japanese textured cotton. Merino wool still dominated the suits at Pitti Uomo, with Gallo going as far as a tailored set of Merino wool socks. In line with the holiday vibe, the colours have gotten muter, tans and greys are back but with more style than ever before.
The growing trend of Athleisure had made its mark on Pitti Uomo 93. The usual thin and monochrome design was persistent, but some designers took the concept of athlifestyle as the literal future of clothing. Christopher Bevans of dyne has taken technology to clothes with what he calls ‘ultra-contemporary dynamism’ pushing fabric, fit and function to a veritable super suit. Men’s backpacks have sleeked up and have taken on a new aura of classiness and dignity. Examples from Gear3 and Descente Allterrain would make any leather briefcase look stuffy and outdated.
Finland -Pitti Uomo 93
Finland was the guest country for Pitti Uomo this year bringing the best Scandinavian designers to display their Nordic style. One of Finland’s most critically acclaimed designers, Julia Männistö, showcased her signature powerful silk screen printing and innovative surface designs. Others in this vibrant renaissance of Nordic fashion include Saint Vacant’s pop coloured men’s shoes and CHPO Brand’s watches. While classic interpretations of the bleak wintery Nordic look like the men’s trench coat from Nomen Nescio, purveyors of Finnish minimalism, still reared it’s stoic head.
The January Pitti Uomo is always a precursor to what we will be seeing in the years to come. The next event will be held in June and we will see what styles have stuck. However, the overall sense of relaxation, minimalism and spiritfulness has a clear message, 2018 is a time to relax and unwind.The fabric mills of Senszio
At Senszio we are proud to hold the fine fabrics from these mills in our collections.
More famous for their designer line clothing, Ermenegildo Zegna has its roots in fabric. It was Zegna’s eye for fashion and fine cashmere, wool and mohair fabrics that propelled them to success. Now they are still at the forefront, pioneering the lightweight trend of worsted fabrics. The results of their artisans are always highly praised for their sumptuous sheen and impeccable style.
The Vicuña was saved from extinction by Loro Piana. This Alpaca-like creature from the Andes produces some of the finest wool creating a soft and luxurious fabric. Loro Piana also sources fine mohair and cashmeres from across the globe to supplement their offering of fine fabric. Loro Piana Zibeline is one of their signatures, using an ancient Spanish flower to create a unique hammered pattern, both stylish and incredibly soft to the touch.
Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino
“Luxury is not an exception, but a philosophy” This is the ethos that Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino designs by. Founded in 1903 in the beautiful Biella, they owe their fantastic fabric to the clear running water nearby. Specialising in the finer side of fabrics such as cashmere, silk blends and Super 130s and 150s. Their signature in absolute luxury is their 24K line, where they use real gold in their fabrics. Truly a fabric mill to outfit kings.
Started by three brothers, Tessitura Monti has survived through 2 world wars to create the finest shirt fabrics. They provide a wide range of very high-quality fabrics made with single-yarn, twisted and double-twisted yarn and with refined and rich raw materials, such as Giza Egyptian cotton and prestigious Flanders linen.
Thomas Mason has been an English fabric producer since 1796. Though they have been owned by the Italian-based textile experts of the Albini family since 1992, they continue to stay true to their roots. Creating shirt fabrics with a quintessentially British style, they set themselves apart with their Seasonal, Silverline and Goldline collections. Distinguished by its style and made with the very best Egyptian two-fold yarns, you can expect the finest in English gentleman fashion.
A Heritage Mill from the rolling hills of Yorkshire, England, Scabal prides itself in their fabric. Though not as lightweight as their Italian counterparts, their super 150s+ still hold a sheen and luster rival to none. A common sight on Saville role, Scabal has the privilege of suiting some of the most influential men of our time, and continues to do so with their truly timeless fabrics.
Holland and Sherry
Specialising in regional fabrics from their home country of the UK, Holland and Sherry have become known for their immaculate taste and tried tradition. Featuring heavy fabrics ideal for winter chills, their sumptuous wools to rugged Scottish tweeds became the benchmark for quality and craft in the nineteenth century.
Truly focused on perfection, Dormeuil sources their raw materials from all corners of the globe to be brought to their award-winning fabric mill in England. From the raw fibers to yarn then to cloth, the fabric they produce is the culmination of a laborious but rewarding process. Known best for their supple cashmere, Dormeuil is best when going for that undercover luxury.
Vitale Barberis Cononico
One of the oldest fabric mills, founded in 1663, Vitale Barberis Canonico has reinvented itself to stay on top ethical and social standards. With a large archive of different styles and patterns favored by past clients such as Edward VIII, Duke of Windsor, Vitale Barberis Canonico can constantly resurrect timeless classics to re-create with a modern twist.
Our relationship with trusted fabric mills across the globe allow us to service customers in unique ways. The options are virtually limitless. Reach out for you custom requests and we will work with you to provide whatever you need.Suit Fabric – The first decision for your custom suit
Quality suit fabric is the foundation of any good suit. The first thing any visit to the tailors will be flipping through stacks and stacks of cloth booklets. It can be a daunting task if you are not versed in the aspects that make each fabric unique. Here we hope to introduce you to the 5 main characteristics you should consider when selecting fabrics.
Your first choice will be the type of suit fabric, wool, cotton, linen, silk or blends. Wool will be most people’s preferred choice because of its versatility and office friendliness. For tropical countries, consider cotton for its sweat absorbing and light characteristics, or linen for something more casual. The luster of silk and its blends are best saved for special occasions. Read further on materials and their uses here.
The mill is where the suit fabric is made. Some mills have been around for generations, still creating fabrics from sheep to suit, ensuring a watchful eye every step along the way for absolute perfection. Mills such as Zegna, have built their brand from these enduring traditions and can attract the best in pattern weavers and cloth dyers to create truly iconic fabric. Of course, there are other mills that offer similar quality at a lower price point, but without the prestige and fashion edge. Learn about all the mills we source from here.
The weight of the cloth you choose affects everything from the warmth of your suit to the fit. Fabrics can range from something as light as 210 grams per square meter (GSM) to something as heavy as 300 GSM. The weight is not any indication of quality, super 150s and higher can all vary in weight. Where weight makes the most impact is in how you carry yourself in the suit as well as warmth.
If there is one thing that is constant, higher quality means a finer thread, a brighter sheen and a more luxurious feel. This is most prevalent in wool and silk and its blends, though linen and cloth still have their best examples. Silk may be blended with other cloths to add versatility and to also bring down it’s price, while the quality in pure new wool is dictated by its fineness (or diameter) of the wool fiber, either in microns or Super 100s -180s.
The final choice, but the most lasting will be the colour and pattern. When first starting out, its best to fill your wardrobe with classic styles that can be worn to a variety of occasions and venues. These will be your blue, grey and charcoal wool suits. When venturing further, we have a weekly style guide that features unique match ups to inspire you. You can also browse our online database of the more popular suit fabrics we offer.
If you have any further questions, our master tailors will be more than happy to answer your questions. Drop us a line at email@example.com