How to choose suit colors and fabric patterns

When it comes to a bespoke suit, color and patterns are the choices that can really make you stand out. You probably would have already thought about the use and the style of your suit but the next decision is regarding suit colors. You can select the best cut and fabric for your bespoke suit, and your personal tailor will ensure to give you the perfect look.

Color
If your suit is going to be worn in an office environment, there are two distinct looks you can achieve. Choose deep blue or a charcoal suit color if you are in a position of leadership. These dark colors will not be distracting and will lend an aura of professionalism and comfort to your personality. If you need to influence and convince, you can go for a blue to add creativity and vigor to your pitches and presentations. For a leisure suit, the sky is the limit, and a flashy color will definitely turn heads. Although, a leisure suit cannot be worn on every social occasion! The formal bespoke suit is always best when sticking to a traditional look. Like the Model, you can have one as long as it is a dark color.

How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Charcoal Black Office Menswear

Patterns
There is a wide array of patterns you can consider for your suit. Ranging from very obvious checker board patterns and thick pin stripes, to subtle herringbones and thin pin stripes. For the office, going subtle with your patterns is a great way to sneak in a little bit of style without overpowering. If you want to go big with your bespoke jacket, just remember to wear a pair of mute trousers to avoid clashing.

For your leisure suit, if going for a bright and flashy color, don’t over power it with a complex flashy pattern like a check or wide pinstripe. Just remember that it is easy to add accents to a suit with a bright tie, but it is impossible to tone down a bright and flashy suit with any kind of accessory. For formal suits, keep it very subtle, limiting to textured patterns. You don’t want to ruin the crisp dark look.

How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Gey Pinstripe
How To Choose Color Customize Suit Patterns Burgundy Maroon Blazer Jacket Casual

Customising
There are many places to sneak in a little bit of flair without ruining the look of your suit. The inner lining is the most popular place to really express your creativity. As it is completely covered when the suit is being worn, having a very bright color or complex pattern is not a problem. Another place to add hidden flair is inside the collar. Next is all the small details, such as the buttons, the button hole thread, monograms and others. If you want any suggestions, your tailor can guide you towards the appropriate choices. Customization is not limited to only colorful fabrics. It could be anything that you can think of and your tailor will try his best to incorporate. Customization really lets you be quite creative!

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Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Rainbow Skulls 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Horse Riding 525x700

The best way to ensure that you really nail down your stylistic choices is to go to a master tailor. At Senszio, our 3rd generation craftsmen have been suiting the well-dressed gentleman with a keen sense of style. Book an appointment here.

The psychology of color behind your lawyer suits

When it comes to being a great lawyer, it’s all about forging the correct arsenal. From research, arguments, retorts and wit, one seldom remembered weapon is dress code. We all know it is important to dress to impress, but the colour of your suit can shape how people view you, and thus how effective you are as a lawyer. Here is a short guide to using colour in your lawyer suits:

Beige/Tan Lawyer Suits
Earth tone lawyer suits help you to look more humble, approachable, trustworthy and honest. It helps with the underdog story, in appealing to people’s empathy and generosity. Great if dealing with people you have to convince to your side, perhaps a jury, or in a class action, or when talking to people with small town values, like the elderly or country folk. Whenever it is the individual that is making the decision, not corporate, beige or tan suits are the way to go.

Lawyer Suit Dress Code Court Trial Jury Beige Tan Nice Honest 550 X 825

Blue/Grey Lawyer Suits
Blue or Grey lawyer suits help you to look, smart, hardworking and energetic. These suits are best used in friendly encounters with corporate clients, or when dealing with bureaucracy and those who are already on your side. The blue or grey suit is your baseline suit, and works best as your dependable everyday work horse.

Lawyer Suit Dress Code Court Trial Jury Navy Double Breasted Smart Suit 550 X 825

Charcoal Lawyer Suits
The charcoal lawyer suit is your war suit. It exudes power, dominance and conviction. It is a statement that the time to prepare is over, and the time of reckoning is at hand. Use it to show intimidation when meeting at negotiations which you anticipate to be hostile, or meetings where you know that you can bully down the opposition.

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Each colour of your lawyer suits have their strengths, but to really make them shine they have to be used passingly. Especially when interacting with the same jury or judge over many days. If you always wear your charcoal intimidation suit, it doesn’t become so intimidating. If you always wear your beige nice-guy suit, it can quickly limit it’s impact. When you are going into those confrontations or meetings where you need that last edge to really push you over the top, think about your lawyer suits.

Senszio is more than happy to outfit you with what you need form our master craftsmen. Check our appointment schedule here.

Taking your tailored suit lining to the next level

The suit lining can be a great place to express your own personal touches, and cement the tailored suit look. Made out of a fine fabric like silk or a silk blend, the lining encases the entire inner surface of the suit. It would be a waste to simply let your tailor fill it with a drab grey or black. Here are some tips to really make that suit lining pop.

Hide some color
While you are wearing your suit, no one will be able to get a good look at your suit liner. This allows you to sneak in bold and brash colours that otherwise would be less than formal at the workplace. Solid colours make for a subtle tweak to your suit lining, try a deep red or green for a more formal look, or a bright blue or pink for something flashier. Patterns are also a great way to sneak in some style, from a traditional paisley twist, or something captivatingly bizarre.

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Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Two Suits 525x700

Express your hobbies
Suit linings that are personal are great conversation starters. Avid sports fan? How about using the jersey of your favourite player as a lining? Or if you are a wine connoisseur, a mosaic of wine labels might be more to your tastes. When people catch a glimpse of these unique linings, it is a fantastic opportunity to build a rapport over a conversation you are truly interested in.

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Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Romance Comics 525x700

Get inventive
Suit Linings are also great places to hide little secrets or go high tech. Want a winter suit that looks like a summer suit? Sneak in a second lining of wind blocking material beneath the silk one. Create little pockets in obscure locations to hide away cash when travelling, or sew in an RFID chip to magically open doors at the office.

Whatever you can think of, your tailor will be able to make it work. Even more so, a unique addition or funky choice will probably make his day. Don’t let your suit lining go to waste, choose something to really make your tailored suit, your own. Our master tailors are experts at unique designs and suit linings. Check our schedule to book an appointment here.

Here’s a few more fun ones from some of our clients.

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Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Horse Riding 525x700
Suit Liner Style Design Color Pattern Bespoke Custom Customize Skulls Roses 525x700
Aftercare Linen – How to clean and care for linen suits

Linen is the fabric of choice when it comes to hot and humid weather. Favoured by gentlemen visiting the far reaching tropics of the world, the linen suit is a unique piece of clothing allowing them to stay comfortable and protected. Your linen suit will always be there to keep you cool as long as you treat it right.

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Characteristics
Linen is one of the oldest cloths man has created. Made out of the woven strands of the Flax plant, linen is both strong and durable. Flax is also the plant that early bowstrings were made out of. Linen makes some small sacrifice in softness to achieve great strength and breathability. This is because the weave of linen fabric is very loose. This loose weave also allows dyes to take hold in Linen easily, making it available in a wide array of different colours. Interestingly, linen is also the only fabric that will actually get stronger when wet, this is due to the water smoothing out the microscopic imperfections in the fabrics, allowing the weave to seamlessly move against each other when stretched, instead of snagging on each other and tearing.

Storage
Linen creases easily, and worse yet, it is notoriously difficult to iron flat. Linen is not affected too drastically by heat and humidity, however is still a natural material and a target for things like pests and mold. Best to still keep your linen garments in a cool and dry storage area. Much like other suits, keep it hung up and fully supported by the shoulders with enough space that it comes out freely when traveling to and from the wardrobe.

Cleaning
Linen is a very strong fabric and can withstand the pummel of the dry cleaners quite readily. That being said, still try to avoid taking your linen suit to the dry cleaners as much as possible. Shirts and trousers can be readily machine washed, the fabric is strong and will not run. Keep your washing machines settings to below 60 °C (140 °F) as an extra precaution. Your Clothing will shrink a little bit due to the fabric’s loose weave. While in the machine, the tumbling plus the heat will cause the strands to tighten up. Simply let your garments hang dry and they will return to near normal size. Do not use a dryer as the shrinking will be far more extreme. Once hung dry, if worn immediately, may still feel a bit tight, however a couple minutes of use will return it to normal size. When ironing your linen garments, patience is key. Turn up your iron to high heat and keep trying until those wrinkles disappear. Linen is a woven fabric so iron in different directions to make sure you are straightening out every single fiber!

Stains
When it comes to stains, you need to act fast. This is to prevent the stain from drying out and setting in. Your goal is to add water to the stain in controlled amounts using a tissue to gently mix with the stain. Then you will use another tissue to absorb the water along with the stain in a soft dabbing motion. Keep adding water and absorbing again until the stain is removed, or no longer has an effect. Linen Is tough, so thankfully you will not do too much damage to it. If the stain persists send it off to the drycleaners.

Brown Linen Suit Close Detail Jacket Lapel Milanese Boutonniere

Daily Use
Linen is very durable and can be worn as much as desired. Like the jungle explorers of old, simply dunk your linen into a cool stream and dry it by the camp fire and it will be fit to be worn another day. The only fault that wearing linen daily has is that linen has a very particular look and texture. It’s always best to mix up your wardrobe.

Travel
Your next trip to South East Asia or the Middle East would be incomplete without a linen suit. No need for special carrying cases, just gently place in the middle of your luggage, trying to avoid as few folds as possible. Wrinkling is inevitable but easily resolved. Once you are at your destination, send it to be ironed for a fresh look.

Fabric weight and GSM explained for suits and shirts

With fabric, there are several types of numbers to consider that define it. Why is weight important to understand? The weight has a great deal to do with how warm you will be and how the fabric drapes, wrinkles and responds to your movements. The raw material and quality of the fabric also effects these things, but a 180GSM vs. 300GSM of any material will definitely contribute to how it feels on your body.

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Fabric weight is usually measured in ounces or in GSM (grams per square meter or gm/2). Metric is more common but you will still find some mills measuring their fabrics using imperial measurements (ounces – oz or oz/yd2). Light weight fabrics would be from 180GSM to 230GSM. These would include your linens, silks, cottons and fine wools. Medium weights would be from 240GSM to 290GSM, including wool, some thicker cottons and certain silk blends. Heavy weights would be anything higher than 300GSM such as thick wool and tweed.

Breathability
The lighter your fabric is, the more breathable and summer suited your suit will be. It is no surprise that tropical climate fabrics like linen and cotton are also very light. If you are looking for something to wear all season, or when purchasing your first suit, stick to a wool in the 210-230 GSM range. This should keep you cool in the summer, and be thin enough to sneak a cardigan underneath in the winter. The heavier you go in GSM, the thicker the fabric tends to get, making high GSM fabrics ideal for keeping warm in the winter.

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Fit
The weight of the fabric also affects the fit of your suit. Tailors love to work with heavier fabrics as they hold their shape more readily, and drape downwards easier. This creates a very clean and fitted look when being worn. As the fabric gets lighter, it sways more in the wind, creases easier and is more likely to get snagged on your shoulders, belt or shirt sleeves, causing a disheveled look. Heavier fabrics are usually thicker, which might cause one to look portly.

Wools
While cottons, linens and silks will not vary too much, you can find wools in a wide range of weights. Many are aware that wool comes in different thread counts, usually labeled as Super 110s – Super 160s+, but are unsure how this affects weight. It is true that as wool goes up in thread count, it will usually be lighter, but as the threads themselves can vary in size, you can still find Super 150s from 220GSM all the way to 290GSM. Italian super 150s+ usually favor the ultralight side of wool (as low as 220gsm), while British fabric mills will create a heavier variety.

Shirting Fabric Weight
Shirt fabrics will follow the same principals as suit fabrics however with less complications. Due to the various fabric materials and uses of a suit, jacket or blazer, the fabric weight choices are much more. A quality dress shirt will typically be made of cotton, linen or a blend of each. The thickness will vary less and typically range in the 100 – 200 GSM range. To separate the nuances of fine shirting and understanding of the weave and origin of the raw material is more important determinant of quality.

Fabric weight can get a bit technical, if in doubt during your first fitting your tailor will always be happy to advise you in the right direction.

Aftercare silk – how to clean and care for silk suits

Nothing will be more prized in a wardrobe than a silk suit. It will never lose its luster, staying soft and shiny for generations, allowing it to be passed from father to son as an heirloom. The silk in your suit is akin to spider silk and retains some of its legendary durability and strength, making it straight-forward to care for. Silk suits are best for luxurious events and dinner jackets and is blended in many ways to achieve various effects.

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Characteristics of Silk
Silk is laboriously extracted from the silk worm. It takes 2500 worms to make enough silk for one suit, which lends to its expensive price tag. Silk has great absorbency, keeping you dry and cool in warm weather. Silk also does not conduct heat well, making it also a lightweight insulating layer that can be worn in the winter. This is due to the fibers being made from protein, different to that of other natural fibers like wool and cotton. The proteins lend it great strength and durability, able to stretch up to 30% of its original size with no lasting damage. However, this strength does make it difficult for colours to stay in the silk. Something as simple as exposure to light is enough to fade the colour in the fabric.

Silk Blends
Silk/Cotton and Silk/Wool blends should be treated as silk. These blends are usually done for cosmetic purposes, and do not add any physical strength. It could be argued that blends make the cloth less durable, since silk is far stronger than the fabrics blended with them. Some more intricate blends may also create points of weakness along the seams in which the cloth has been weaved together. When taking your silk blend garment to the silk cleaners, be sure to inform them exactly what blend it is.

Storage
Silk thankfully is resistant to the elements. It is unaffected by mildew, so humidity in low levels should not be a concern. Silk is also naturally resistant to creasing, but do keep it on a proper hangar with enough width to properly support the shoulders. Keep silk suits covered with a suit bag to keep insects at bay. Insect repellents will emit odors that could taint your clothing. When taking your silk suit out of storage, it should be ready to wear immediately. This versatility has made it the clothing of kings for centuries, but if you do need to iron out the smallest of creases, be sure the fabric is damp as it will deteriorate at heats over 160°C / 320°F. When in doubt, use a steamer.

Cleaning Silk
You probably won’t be wearing silk suits often, so thankfully cleaning can be kept to a minimum. After use, give your suit a gentle brush down to rid any small particles of dust. Dry cleaning uses harsh chemicals, on such a treasured garment, this should be avoided at all costs. Be sure to research your silk cleaners thoroughly and spare no expense if you really need a deep cleaning. Do not use just any commercial dry cleaner. Ask around or read some reviews online to find a trustworthy and skilled dry cleaner. When it comes to ironing be sure to use low heat on damp cloth. The protein that makes up strands of silk will deform with high heat (imagine cooking a steak). Steamers will not prove very effective as silk retains too much moisture leading to soggy clothing.

Stains
The reason for silk’s public image of fragility is its susceptibility to stains. Not that stains are impossible to remove, but spot treating on silk clothing will only make things worse. Silk is very poor at retaining its colour, any spot treating will fade the surrounding area, causing an unsightly patch in your clothing. Use a dry cloth to very softly soak up any remaining moisture. Do not press into the fabric. Once home, take your stained silk and gently bathe it in a cold bucket with a few drops of liquid detergent. Use only a product formulated for silk. Agitate the garment in the tub for a few minutes, be sure not to rub the fabric to vigorously in any one area. Hang your garment to dry until it is just damp enough to iron. If the stain persists, send it to your silk cleaners.

Daily Use
Silk is great at absorbing sweat in the summer, and as a thin insulating layer in winter. Using silk as an underlayer for these purposes are fine for everyday use. They won’t get stained if under your clothing. For Silk suits save them for special occasions. The sheen of silk is eye catching and exotic, best saved for limelight moments. You wouldn’t drive your classic sports car to dinner, nor would you wear a silk suit. When wearing your silk suit, be careful of stains. That being said, don’t let your silk suit hide in the closet out of fear of damaging it. Wear it and make sure people see it!

Travel
It is important to pack your silk suit correctly to avoid abrasive damage. Use a polyester suit bag with a smooth finish, and be sure to fit the suit inside properly. If you got your suit from Senszio, the suit bag that it came with is sufficient until you switch to a travel specific suit bag. Make sure that you do not fold the suit more than once and the hangar is uniform in width throughout. Thankfully Silk does not wrinkle easily, once you reach your destination, take it out and hang it properly.

At Senszio we craft suits that emit a timeless sheen, even when not made from silk. Our tailors honed their skills over 3 generations to offer top quality garments to you, the discerning gentleman. Come visit us and book an appointment for the next time we are in your city.

The art of a fabric weave

Choosing the right fabrics for your suit or shirt from 3000+ options can be overwhelming. Especially if you know nothing about what the fabrics are and what makes them unique. Different types of fabric weave have unique structures, patterns and functionalities. This article is less about the material the fabric is made from, like wool, cotton, silk, etc. We discuss that in our post about selecting fabrics for your suits. Today, we are showing you a few fabrics that are popular to help you in choosing the right fabric for your tailored suit or shirt.

Warp and Weft
The Warp refers to the vertical threads (or Ends) in a fabric. Weft refers to horizontal threads (or Picks) which cross in various different weaving patterns on the loom to form different types of fabric. Both Warp and Weft may be coloured to incorporate stripe and check patterns into the fabric.

Piquet Fabric
Piquet or Piqué, from the French term, is a fabric usually woven with two warps to produce characteristic parallel cords, diamonds, horizontal ribs and other interesting effects. Invented for use with cotton, the fabric is usually very richly constructed to emphasize the raised structures. Almost used exclusively for shirts and polos, piquet fabrics are often knitted as well as woven and can be quite formal (for evening shirts) or also sporty.

Whatispiquetfabric Inside Article

Oxford Fabric
Oxford was traditionally a very basic fabric woven together by interlacing two threads on a coloured warp with a thick white weft, giving a chalky textured appearance. Oxford fabrics have been refined and produced using two-fold and three-fold yarns woven together in complex dobby structures to achieve the typical Oxford appearance. The finer versions of an Oxford are referred to as Pin Point or Royal Oxford and are used primarily for shirts with cotton. While rare, some suits have seen oxford (wool) used as well.

Whatisoxfordfabric Inside Article

Twill Notice
Twill is an English term that is used to identify fabrics with a diagonal structure. Main characteristics of a twill fabric is that by using the diagonal weave, as opposed to a plain weave, it’s possible to incorporate more threads and therefore the resultant fabrics are heavier and thus more suitable for cooler weather.

The pattern is reached by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on. Every time a “step” is left between rows to create the characteristic diagonal structure. A vast majority of suit fabrics are some kind of twill weave.

Some notable examples of fabrics that fall under the diagonal “Twill” family are flannel, tweed, herringbone, houndstooth and many more.

Whatisatwillfabric Inside Article

Poplin Fabric
Poplin is a light cotton fabric with a higher number of yarns in the warp than in the weft, which makes it especially suitable for striped designs. The name is derived from the french word “papaline”, namely a fabric that was created for the Popes in the Middle Ages. Poplin is usually made with cotton but any fabric can be made into a poplin fabric.

Whatisapoplin Article

Two-Fold
Two-fold means that two very finely spun yarns have been subsequently twisted together to form a two-fold yarn, which is much stronger, smoother and more durable than the original single-fold yarns.

Fabrics woven from two-fold yarns are soft but also crisp, and have an unsurpassed lustre, drape and handle, as well as good resilience.

Whatdoestwofoldmean Inside Article

There are of course many more fabric types other than these, but now you know some of the basics. And you don’t have to panic at all, as our bespoke master at Senszio will assist you in finding the ones that suit your preference perfectly. Check out the next touring schedule here.

A candid walk through New York suit fashion with Google maps

To really immerse yourself in a city, you must walk its streets. As people pass you by, you get a sense of the culture, the everyday life and the fashion. Using google maps, let’s take a walk through New York and see if we can’t find a NYC Bespoke suit.

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This man spotted outside Bloomberg catching up on his emails, shows the classic office fashion of a New York bespoke suit. Who knows, we could be looking at Harvey Specter himself. A solid dark charcoal black in a form fitting cut, accentuating a lean figure that has come to define our modern style. There may be a bit much in terms of break on the trousers but it’s hard to tell from just one angle of a low quality image.

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Here we see a looser fitting cut of the same suit. Still tailored to fit, but with a little extra room for more comfort during a long day’s work. A sharp tie expertly completes the New York bespoke suit for a very professional look.

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It’s not just black that is in fashion, but a sharp sharkskin grey for a more neutral tone at the office. Pink is a bold choice, one that may be best left to that woman’s hoodie.

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For those not on wall street, strutting a little style doesn’t hurt anybody. What’ s important in looking good when out on the street is in the craftsmanship of the New York bespoke suit. While the color choice is a stylish one, this man’s grey blazer has some serious bunching on the arms which indicate there is simply too much fabric. A good tailor would avoid that when crafting and could easily rectify by removing a bit of fabric from the area surrounding the scye (the armhole).

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A well-tailored New York bespoke suit is obvious even from behind. The perfectly measured length of trouser, width of shoulders and the effortless taper along the waist betray the skilled hands of a master.

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When choosing something off the rack, the awkward miss match of suit lines to body contours plus the garish creases and bulges emphasise poor quality. This is especially clear in the shoulders of this man strolling past Central Park on his way to purchase some hot dogs.

A man’s suit is a great way to stand apart from the crowd and look more professional. How do you stand out from other professionals also wearing suits? You go bespoke. So for next time when big brother captures you candid, make sure you look good with a New York bespoke suit. Senszio has been clothing discerning individuals for over 3 generations. The decades of craftsmanship and service creates lasting style unique to the individual. Book an appointment with our master tailors, or check our tour schedule here.

Wool aftercare – prolonging the life of your suit

The wool suit is a common piece in everyone’s wardrobe. It is the everyday work horse being comfortable in both summer and winter. Due to its versatility, it is usually the first suit we purchase. A good wool suit is a timeless piece of men’s fashion and will last you decades if proper aftercare is given.

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Understanding the characteristics of wool
Wool is a natural fiber that is tough and insulating. The fibers have millions of micro threads that create small pockets which air will naturally seep into. This creates a buffering layer of air that keeps you warm in the winter. These pockets also make the fabric very breathable, a gust of wind will also seep through cooling you in the summer. A lower thread count in a wool suit will usually mean it is thicker and better at insulating warmth. As the thread count increases, the fabric will be more orderly, and resulting in a sheen finish and a slimmer profile. These suits are more suitable for the summer, the thinness allowing for wind to easily go through the fabric. High thread counts will also be less durable and require extra care. If your suit has a high thread count, you will need to be extra careful and gentler than you would a thick wool coat.

Storage
Let’s start here assuming you have a new suit or have cleaned yours since your last outing. Make sure to store wool in a cool, dry place. It is a natural fiber and like all natural things, heat and moisture do not equal longevity. Your wool suit should be hung in a wardrobe for safety. Wrap a cloth garment bag around it and you’re really doing it right. Make sure that the hangar you use is wide enough to fully support the shoulders, a thin hangar will leave a crease line. Wool trousers can be hung over the hangar cross bar or placed folded as long as there is no considerable weight upon it. Wool is breathable so any scents or aromas in your wardrobe will transfer to your suit. If you are worried about moths, Cedar hangars are a natural way to deter pests, and dehumidifying packs will help keep away the moisture that pests enjoy.

Senszio How To Spot Exceptional Tailoring

Daily Use
Try to keep your suit supported by the shoulders as much as you can. If taking off your jacket, the least you can do is hang it on the back of a chair, or better on a hangar or coat rack. If you are trying to get wrinkles out of your suit, the best way is using steam. Wool is very sensitive to heat and the gentle action of a steamer over an iron, will extend your suit’s life. Daily wear and tear is unavoidable, you will be walking, sitting, sweating in your suit after all. Wool’s fabric structure is slightly forgiving in this way, allowing for a degree of stretching and flexing. This is part of what makes it a good everyday wearer. When it comes to suit longevity however, there is one simple way to double the life of your suit. Don’t wear it every day. Try to rotate your suits in and out, its best to have more than one look, and more than one suit anyway.

Cleaning
If you wear suits to work frequently, you’ll want to pay close attention here. Keeping your suit clean by following a few best practices will help to increase its longevity. A wool tends to want to trap small particles of dust and grime between its fibers. Especially wool suits that have a smaller thread count. A good brushing with a fabric brush is recommended to get this detritus off your suit. The brushing process is gentle and does not use any harsh chemicals. These brushes are relatively small and can easily be thrown in your suit case on a long business trip. Pay special attention to higher contact areas like the sleeves and trouser legs.

For deep cleans, never stuff it in your washing machine! Dry cleaning is an option if your suit is very dirty, but try to avoid over doing it. Dry cleaning uses very intensive solutions to get your suit clean, and will wear out your garments over excessive cycles. Try to limit dry cleaning your suit to only once or twice a year. Wool is self-cleaning to a certain degree with the keratin of the wool helping to break down sweat, for instance. If you are religious in brushing down your suit and storing it properly to let it breathe, this should be enough.

In short, regular care with brushing and quickly addressing any spill or smudge then Dry clean once or twice a year for that deep clean.

Stains
When it comes to stains, you need to act fast. This is to prevent the stain from drying out and setting in. Your goal is to add water to the stain in controlled amounts using a tissue to gently mix with the stain. Then you will use another tissue to absorb the water along with the stain in a soft dabbing motion. Keep adding water and absorbing again until the stain is removed, or no longer has an affect. Wool is a very heat sensitive fabric, so do not use hot water, or any source of heat to dry it out. As the fibers carry lots of air pockets within them, using pressure will only push the stain further into the fabric. When dabbing with a tissue be sure to be very light and gentle. If you have any wool-safe washing detergents, you can also add that to the water. Do not use any bleach or acidic treatments. Once clean, be sure to let your garment dry flat. This is to ensure that your suit does not warp. Any stain that resist your efforts should be sent to the dry cleaners as soon as possible.

Travel
When travelling there are many fantastic cases and contraptions to carry your suit safely, but in a squeeze, a regular suit case will do. When packing a suit, remember that the less folds the better. Keeping it safely inside your Senszio suit bag, fold it once from top to bottom, and place it into your suitcase. If space is tight, pop the shoulders inside-out, fold the suit in half making sure both lapels line up with each other. Then either fold it in half from bottom to top or do a loose roll from the bottom up. Finally, fold the trouser legs together and wrap the trousers around the folded or rolled suit to finish it off. This will help prevent creases and wrinkles on the suit surface, especially in the shoulders. Once you arrive at your destination, hang it up as soon as you can on a proper hanger. Also, most hotel concierges should be happy to help you steam and de-wrinkle your suit.

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Pressing
If possible, use steam. Investing in a steamer can go a long way if you’re serious about prolonging the life of your suits. Using a dry iron will burn the fibers and add an unnatural sheen to the material. If your steamer isn’t cutting it, take the suit to the cleaners and have them press it. If you store your suit properly and give it time to bounce back to it’s unwrinkled self, steaming and pressing may not be necessary.

With gentle aftercare, your wool suit will serve you for many years. But just in case you want another suit, you can always come to us at Senszio. Our 3 generation master tailors are artisans in their craft and produce suits favoured by the influential and wealthy. Check our tour schedule here.

A Chicago custom suit – a field guide to picking the right suit

Congratulations on your decision to get a Chicago custom suit! The move into bespoke clothing is a liberating experience, allowing you to fully customize and perfectly fit your clothing. This abundance of choices can be a little daunting however, how do you know if you have chosen the right cut? Or the right colour and fabric?

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Function
First decide, is the Chicago custom suit for work, leisure or formal events? If for the office, does your job require you to lead and manage? Or are you more client facing? The Chicago custom suit can influence others into inspiration or captivation just from the cut and colour. Summer and winter leisure suits isn’t just about fabric thickness, but also colour palettes. Remember to ask your tailor for help!

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Lifestyle
Next consider the lifestyle of your suit. Will you wear it every day? Are you mostly standing or sitting? If your suit is worn every day, a longer lasting fabric would be a wise choice. Wool for the winter, cotton for the summer. Linen and other delicate cloths will wear out quickly. The cut is also important. If worn mostly seated, like an office suit, the tailoring in the pants and the jacket vents can be altered to be more flattering and comfortable in a seating position. Whereas a formal suit that is worn mostly standing will have a cut to complement a taller figure.

Price
Fabrics will be the main determinant of the cost of your suit. Wool increases in price based on how fine the thread is, as well as some specialty wools such as alpaca wool or mohair. Certain mills adhere to the “Super” classification (Loro Piana, Huddersfield, Holland & Sherry, Cervotessile, Kusak Tekstil, Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino, Thomas Mason). The distinction between the a Super 100 and Super 150 is the thinness of the individual fibers spun into the yarn that is used to weave the fabric. The higher the number, the thinner the fibers. While others utilize “microns” (Ermenegildo Zegna, Dormeuil) to measure the difference in how fine the fibers in their fabrics are. For instance a 15 micron fiber is what is spun into the 15 Milmil 15 Ermenegildo Zegna collection for suiting. The main difference in these fabrics is the feel of the fabric, the finer the less fuzzy. The thinness of the fibers does not necessarily make one fabric better or worse than the other. Fabric choice all comes down to individual preference and what makes sense for the intended use of your suit.

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Cotton also comes in a range of prices, but brand prestige can play a big role in this. If you are making something only for special events, investing in a more luxurious fabric will make you stand out. For every day, a more durable fabric would be wise but a less expensive one that can be replaced more willingly would also make sense.

When in doubt, you can always ask your tailor, they will help you make the best practical and stylistic choices for your Chicago custom suit. At Senszio, our master craftsmen have honed their 3 generations of skill and knowledge into the finest custom suits. A thrilling and luxurious experience from first measurement to final product is our prideful joy. See our Chicago touring schedule here.