Thomas Mason has a fresh 2018 catalogue that has reinvented gentlemen’s style with their premium shirt fabrics. Not only focusing on office wear, Thomas Mason’s leisure and special occasion fabrics marks a distinct sense of couture for this Italian fabric mill. Their finest quality fabrics are represented in their Noble line, with Giza 45 cotton.
Oxford and Piquet
Infinitesimal details camouflage the wearer of Oxford and Piquet fabric. From afar, the pinpoint design with a warp 140/2 and a threefold weft by Thomas Mason blends into a subtle warmth. When up close, the intricate design can be seen in all it’s tailored glory. Shades of blue and white are perfect for sneaking in a fashionable touch for the work place, while utilizing the striped look of the Piquet for those days off.
The working horse weave of shirt fabrics, Poplin gets a dignified face lift from Thomas Mason. Its flat weave allows for greater air circulation, making them perfect for those summer months. The latest options provide unique offerings from David & John Anderson, the brand acquired by Albini Group in 1992 which specialises in the finest yarn counts and fabrics in the most exquisite materials. Styles with a tighter structure, like the Cullinan 300/2 make for smart lines when looking your best is important. Looser structures such as the Buckingham 140/2 could be mistaken for linen, but offer supreme comfort and breathability.
One of the oldest weaves developed in England, Twill’s diagonal pattern still dazzles with its illusionary sheen. Subtle criss-cross patterns in the cloth shows off Thomas Mason’s attention to detail in their signature Twill weave, Hampton. Ranging from stripes, checks and plain, the Hampton twill is a testament to Thomas Mason’s eye for skill and design. A close up comparison of the Super Hampton and Hampton highlights the differences between two seamingly same light blue fabrics.
Thomas Mason Seasonal Collections
2018 brought out the wilder side of Thomas Mason. The Warwick and Wallpaper lines of cloth are a playful addition to any wardrobe. Bright colours and amusingly questionable patterns show that just because you have an eye for the luxurious, doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with it. Twill checks and patterns also feature heavily this year, as does the Balmoral weave.
Some of these playful patterns require more complex stitching and dying than most fabrics. Turning the fabric over can reveal much about how the cloth was produced. Jacquards as seen in the examples below are the most complex weave due to the non-repeating images woven within the normal weave of the fabric. Thomas Mason’s Jacquard example, with navy blue dots, uses a technique called fil-coupé (literally means “cut threads” in French) which requires the pattern’s to be trimmed to remove excess threads on the underside. The detailing is most noticeable on the reverse side of the fabric. Rolling up your sleeves would reveal such elegant intricacies in your bespoke shirt.
Printed fabrics are becoming more popular as the process and technologies used to dye the surface of the fabric improves. The results are becoming more photo realistic as a result. These floral patterns below exhibit different styles. One with painting-like qualities and while the other mimics a stitched look.
What seem like your standard office wear fabrics are made special with their fabric contents and treatments. With the Balmoral incorporating cotton with cashmere, the breathability and wearability of Cotton is combined with the softness and warmth of Cashmere. Thomas Mason have also created a “Natural Comfort” fabric whose secret is enclosed in a special treatment that confers a natural elasticity without using any synthetic components.
Denim options are brought to us by Albiate 1830 selected by Thomas Mason. Their treatments are unique, such as enzyme washing and single or double bleaching, that bring out a charming vintage effect in the fabric. For those that travel but always want to look crisp and fresh, the Journey fabrics do not crease. Perfect for those who travel and don’t have time to iron or take their shirts in for a pressing.
To round off the new Thomas Mason catalog, there are fine zephyrs, as well as some relaxed linens. After over 300 years of meticulous quality, the 2018 collection holds true to this tradition with a spectacular collection. Arrange an appointment to feel the quality yourself here, and check our touring schedule here.Behind the Tailor’s Table: Choosing a lapel style
The lapel makes the jacket, yet it is usually not something that we think too much about. Peak, Notch, Shawl? What will look best for my body type? These types of questions will usually be left to the tailor’s discretion, but traditionally there is only one real rule as to what lapel is appropriate: occasion. Other factors may sway you from one lapel style to another, but occasion is the most logical starting point when considering lapel options.
The Notch Lapel Style
Defined by its distinctive notch at the widest part of the lapel, the Notch is a lapel style most befitting business wear. The most versatile of lapel types, it helps slim the figure with its distinctively thinner lapel widths. Both versatile and fashionable, the Notch lapel is the go to for wardrobe staples or first suits.
The Peak Lapel Style
The Peak is a classic British lapel style, becoming more popular as the workplace becomes casual and wearing sports jackets become commonplace. They are defined by their large lapel width and sharp ‘Peaks’ where the fabric joins. The style is much more versatile than in the past and something to consider for adding a touch of casual style to your look. Peak Lapels are an absolute must for a double-breasted jacket.
The Shawl Lapel Style
The thinnest of lapels, the Shawl lapel style has seen a modernist revival in fashion. With no cuts or permutations at all, the sleek look of the Shawl lapel is the perfect fit for that power tuxedo look. Slimming and unobtrusive, the Shawl lapel style has also begun to creep into mainstream fashion, cropping up on casual and office wear jackets as well.
While the old adage goes, Shawl and Peak for formal and Notch for everything else, times are changing and social fashion conceptions are always being pushed. Ask your tailor at the next fitting and we could even create something truly unique for your next suit. Just don’t ask us to put a Notch lapel on a tuxedo!
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